One Week in Taipei

We spent a week in Taipei, staying at the W in the Xinyi district. We had lots of good food and tea, saw the guard change at the National Revolutionary Martyrs’ Shrine, and visited the National Taiwan Museum and National Palace Museum.

Monday, June 9

BWI

As there is no non-stop routing from the DC area to Taipei, we flew on United from BWI via SFO.

After parking at The Parking Spot North, we had to wait a few minutes by our car for the next shuttle to arrive. Once at the terminal, we checked in with United, passed through security, and went right to The Club. This small lounge in Terminal D has always been mediocre at best since it opened but it is the only option. This morning, they had some iffy bagels and eggs available, as well as a few other random items.

We headed to the gate to board our flight, a 737 MAX 8. Our last time on a 737 MAX was back in 2018, before the MCAS accidents.

This aircraft had United’s new domestic interior, which we haven’t flown on yet as we’ve mostly been doing international flights in the last few years. This new interior finally has a proper IFE system.

Not the best onboard breakfast, but not the worst either. Much better than what was available in The Club though!

The view somewhere over Colorado. Our routing took us north of I-70 and we were seated on the right side of the aircraft, meaning our view was to the north. So, none of the big mountains that we sometimes can recognize from the air.

SFO

After arriving at SFO, we headed right to the Polaris Lounge. There was quite a bit of terminal construction going on so the route to the G gates in the International Terminal was a bit unusual.

It was extremely busy when we arrived at the lounge. We headed over to the restaurant and joined the queue. Given the estimated wait time, we weren’t sure if we’d actually have time to eat there.

So, we started at the buffet. The buffet selection at the Polaris Lounges varies in taste and quality. It was actually pretty decent today.

Oddly, we noticed that they were using disposable everything in the lounge today. Normally, that isn’t the case. We weren’t sure why.

Spring Pea, Leek, Watercress Soup VEG
Olive Oil, Crème Fraîche, Parsley
Agedashi Tofu VG
Ponzu Sauce, Green Onions, Cilantro
Ginger Garlic Sea Bass
Haricot Verts, Roasted Tri-Color Baby Carrots,
Lemon Caper Butter
Pan-Seared Chicken
Spinach, Mushrooms, Garden Vegetable Orzo,
Sweet Pepper Coulis

The buffet dishes today were generally better than the restaurant dishes, which isn’t usually the case.

Chocolate Chip Skillet Cookie VEG
Vanilla Ice Cream
Blackberry Galette VEG
Lemon Brown Sugar, Crème Fraîche
Aperol Spritz Cake VEG
Prosecco Poached Rhubarb

Historically, the chocolate chip cookie was baked upon order. Not so today. Disappointing.

We ended up having just enough time to eat before heading over to the gate. Today, our aircraft, a 777-300, wasn’t at the G gates so it required a bit more of a walk than usual.

Lunch was OK. At least, there was nothing too weird or disgusting!

There pre-arrival meal was a breakfast service, though we’re landing in the evening.

Tuesday, June 10th

TPE

After arriving at TPE, we entered Taiwan, picked up our luggage, and headed out. We took an Uber rather than using transit as we had a bit of luggage with us.

W Taipei

After arriving at the W, we went up to check in on the 10th floor of the building. An information sheet was provided describing the benefits provided to Titanium members of Marriott‘s Bonvoy program.

No real decisions needed to be made other than selecting daily breakfast as the welcome gift.

We had booked a Wonderful Guest Room, the lowest room type at this property.

We were upgraded to a Fantastic Suite via Marriott’s Nightly Upgrade Awards system.

We entered into the large living room area of the suite. It was a huge space with windows lining the entire south wall and a large seating area. There was no desk but the small circular table by the windows could fulfill that role.

The view from near the entrance to the bedroom area.

The bedroom was in the corner of the building. This large room also had windows along the entire length of the one wall, which faces east. There was also ample closet space, though we didn’t photograph in that direction. It was over on the left here!

There was a small bathroom with Toto toilet and a small sink.

The room’s larger bathroom was along the south side of the building and had a large tub as well as a shower. Only one sink though. It is of a modern design which leaves it exposed to the bedroom with no way of completely blocking visibility. The outer wall of the bathroom was ceiling to floor windows, just like the bedroom and living room.

There was a little sort of nook in the corner of the room with a small day bed.

The view to the south is of Taipei 101, the most recognizable building in all of Taiwan.

The view to the east was of the office building atop the Breeze Xinyi shopping mall.

The room also has a minibar with various overpriced items as well as complimentary coffee and tea.

Wednesday, June 11th

Morning

We woke up just before sunrise and were able to see the Sun to the east. While the sky was mostly clear, there were some clouds to the east near the horizon.

There was a bit of glow on the buildings to the south, though it was limited by the clouds on the horizon to the east.

The breakfast buffet had a variety of items, primarily western and Taiwanese. We were pretty hungry so ended up eating quite a bit!

Evening

For dinner, we went to 半島牛肉麵 Peninsula Beef Noodles.

This small restaurant had a small second floor dining area with low ceiling. We got the regular beef noodle soup as well as the variation with half beef tendon. The broth here was tomato and daikon based.

Next, we visited 暖男炸雞 Nuannan Fried Chicken, just a few minutes walk away. This small counter had a few fried chicken options. After asking a bit about the menu, we went for the garlic flavored Japanese style fried chicken. It’s basically karaage but with Taiwanese flavoring.

While waiting for our fried chicken to be fried, we noticed some tea shops in the area. We decided to try 貳虎 OFFTEA. We ordered the 爆檸椿花金萱烏龍 Lemon Jin Xuan Oolong Tea. A fantastic refreshing drink, particularly in the hot and humid Taipei weather.

The straw goes here….

Next, we visited 約翰紅茶公司 John Tea Company, also nearby, because it was just so humid! The name of this shop comes from the nickname of the British East India Company, which isn’t something we knew until looking it up. The 曼非紅茶 Manfei Black Tea we got here was also nice.

Although the fleurs-de-lis is a French thing, the English also used this symbol. And it does show up on the coat of arms for the East India Company.

We walked past the Breeze Xinyi on our way back to the W, which is the building to the right. There were some lights up on the trees by the road. A bit reminiscent of when we were last here in Taipei during the Christmas and New Year holidays!

Turndown service had already happened by the time we returned to our room. Sometimes, small snacks are provided. The W provided small rice crackers.

Thursday, June 12th

Morning

After waking up at the W, we again headed downstairs for breakfast. While most of the items were the same, there were some that had changed.

Unlike yesterday morning, it was overcast today.

It was raining when we headed out. We tried to stay on covered walkways as much as possible. We came upon this deer-like sculpture while walking to the south of the W.

There are various sculptures in this vast shopping area in Xinyi.

Taipei 101 is definitely one of the most iconic skyscrapers in the world. It’s instantly recognizable!

Robin May is apparently a Taiwanese fashion brand that started in Ximending. This is apparently a collab with Disney featuring the Curious Oysters from Alice in Wonderland. They apparently appear in the animated movie from 1951.

Afternoon

While in Taipei 101, we visited Starbucks to see what Taiwan and Taipei specific items they had.

We ended up buying a pair of espresso-sized Taipei 101 mugs.

After having lunch at the Din Tai Fung at Taipei 101, we ended up walking through the Xinyi area for awhile.

We visited Tsujiri in Xinyi A13, Far Eastern Department Store. While we love Tsujiri’s Gion shop in Kyoto, this location was unfortunately not so great, much like our experience with their stores in Montreal and the UK. The matcha flavor in our soft serve was pretty weak and too sweet. So far, the Tsujiri we visited in Singapore has been the only good location outside of Japan.

Also, its a bit unclear how the Tsujiri company operates and what the modern relationship is between the Tsujiri international franchises and excellent Gion Tsujiri which has its main shop in Gion.

We ended up going to the food court on the 4th floor. This space is supposed to represent a historical Taiwanese setting from the 50s and 60s. We were looking for a tea shop that had very good reviews on Google Maps. We did find it and unlike everything else here, it looked kind of shabby. It also was not open.

After going to Xinyi A11, Shin Kong Mitsukoshi, we visited Venchi! We last had Venchi in their home country of Italy when we were in Milano less than two weeks ago. This shop in Taipei was surprisingly much more expensive. The gelato here is made in Taiwan using ingredients from Italy . We got the 75% chocolate and mango & passion fruit flavors. It was good. Venchi seems to do a pretty good job with their international locations!

Later on, we returned to Taipei 101 to get tea drinks from Tao Tao Tea. We visited this shop many times on our last trip here. It’s definitely one of our favorites globally!

Probably the only other chain that we think is just as good is 吃茶三千CHICHA San Chen. They are from 臺中 Taichung and unfortunately only have two stores in Taiwan, both of which are in Taichung. We have visited their shops in Philly and Montreal and somewhere else, maybe Austin?

Taiwan has some famous teas. One category is high mountain tea, from elevations above 1000 meters. Well, that’s not really that high, but its supposed to be high enough to make a difference for tea. Alishan, in the southern half of Taiwan, is famous for its high mountain tea. We looked at some tea shops, tasted some tea, and ended up buying some tea from 阿里山日出 Alishan Rihchu in Xinyi A8, Shin Kong Mitsukoshi.

Evening

We returned to the W in the early evening.

It was still overcast and there was no real noticeable sunset other than the sky simply darkening.

The fantastic view from our suite after day turned to night.

Friday, June 13th

Morning

By now, our 3rd morning at the W, breakfast was familiar and routine. There is plenty to eat in Taipei so unlike some of our travels where we try to eat as much as possible in the morning, there is no need to do so here. Although, we didn’t exactly eat very little!

While it was cloudy, it wasn’t as bad as yesterday. We did see a cloud float by Taipei 101 though, obscuring the topmost portions.

In general though, it seemed like it might be a nice day. Although, this is Taipei in the summer months so nice kind of means hot and humid.

National Revolutionary Martyrs’ Shrine

We decided to visit the 國民革命忠烈祠 National Revolutionary Martyrs’ Shrine in the morning. To get there, we took the MRT Bannan Line (Blue) from 市政府 Taipei City Hall to 臺北 Taipei Main Station. We then changed to the Tamsui-Xinyi Line (Red) and took it north to 圓山 Yuanshan.

After leaving the MRT station, we found the adjacent bus stop on the southeastern side of the station. We took a bus over to the 忠烈祠 Martyrs’ Shrine bus stop.

The entrance gate to the National Revolutionary Martyrs’ Shrine was to the east a bit from the bus stop on the other side of a busy street.

We walked to try to get a view of the gate from the front but unfortunately there is a partial traffic circle that ends up obscuring the view.

Unfortunately, we arrived too early. The shrine does not open until 9am and the entrance is closed until then.

The metal barrier was removed but we still could not enter.

A close look at the gate.

Soon, guards arrived. They eventually took up guard positions in the middle section of the gate.

We headed in with everyone else.

Some additional guards marched by. These guards in their white uniforms are all part of the ROC Navy. When we were last in Taipei, the guards that we saw during the guard changes at the National Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall and Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall were all from the Air Force. Maybe next time we’ll see the Army!

We followed the guards as they continued walking north towards the shrine. Its not really apparent here but there is an inner gate in front of us with a courtyard behind it and the actual shrine on the far side of that courtyard.

We watched as the guards stood outside of the inner gate. Then, we followed them through the gate into the courtyard beyond. The performed a ceremony, taking up their guard positions at the shrine.

Most of the other visitors were with tour groups. The majority of them left after the intimal guards were put in place.

We walked around the grounds a bit and also went to visit the bathroom at the southeast corner of the site.

We then headed back towards the shrine to take a look.

The view to the south towards the main gate.

There are two pavilions on either side of the inner gate. We decided to check them out later.

This is as close as you can get to the shrine.

We decided to check out the two halls on the east and west sides of the courtyard.

The interior of the hall on the east side. There were displays inside which discussed various civilian martyrs.

Sign: Civilian-Martyrs’ Shrine
Area and height: The total area is 403 square meters, with the height of 13 meters.

Structure: Reinforced concrete structure with a glazed tile roof and a ceiling covered with Chinese colored paintings.

Enshrinement: In this shrine, civilians sacrificed during different phases of the revolution and war in the "founding of the nation," "suppressing Yuan," "protecting the constitution," "the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression" and "Counter-insurgency Operations" are mostly revolutionaries. These martyrs include Lu Hao-dong, Lin Jue-min, Qiu Jin, Song Jiao-ren, Zhu Zhi-xin, Luo Fu-xing, the 72 Martyrs of Huanghuagang and the 500 Taiyuan martyrs. More are also commemorated here.

Ritual: During the spring and autumn ceremony every year, the Minister of the Interior will host the rituals, accompanied by the presidents of the Executive Yuan, Legislative Yuan, Judicial Yuan, Examination Yuan and Control Yuan to commemorate these martyrs.

The view looking out towards the courtyard. After exiting the hall, we turned right to loop around the main shrine counter-clockwise.

This path which runs along the inner wall of the shrine compound contains signs which go into the history of the founding of the Republic of China.

Sign: Uprisings for Founding of the ROC
In the declining years of the late Ching Dynasty, the Government was politically ineffective and corrupt, people were generally poor, and major powers invaded China successively and forced China to sign unequal treaties; thus, China had been demoted to a subcolonial status. In view of this dangerous situation in which China was on the verge of being carved up, Dr. Sun Yat-sen created the Hsing-Chung Hui (a political party), a revolutionary society for the purpose of saving China by way of overthrowing Manchu Court, at Honolulu, USA on November 24, 1894. Under the solemn appeal of "expelling the Manchus, restoring China's traditional glory and establishing a republic", people from all walks of life joined Dr. Sun's revolutionary movement. After suffering 10 times of defeat, they finally succeeded in overthrowing the Ching Dynasty and established the Republic of China, the first republic in Asia.

There are also busts which depict various martyrs who died for the revolutionary cause.

These displays focus on the civil war against the Qing Dynasty, which resulted in the founding of the Republic of China, and the subsequent war against Japan and party concurrent civil war.

Plaque: MARTYR Zou Rong (1882-1904)
Martyr Zou Rong, aka Wei-dan, had performed brilliantly since childhood. When he grew older, he furthered his studies in Japan. Being eloquent, he was good at delivering speeches. At the age of twenty-one, he published The Revolutionary Army, to explicate the meanings and implications of revolution. Terse and precise in diction, he injected his passion for the revolution between the lines, winning consensus both at home and abroad. Indeed, it was one of the gigantic driving forces before the 1911 Revolution. Unfortunately, he was arrested because of the Jiangsu Paper Case. Later, he died in the prison.
Sign: The Uprising in Hueichow
In the last few years of Ching Dynasty, the armed forces of the Eight-Power Alliance invaded Peking as a result of the Boxer's rebellion. All Chinese were indignant over Empress Dowager's use of the Boxer's rebellion to drive foreigners out of China and Mr. Cheng, Shih-liang was ordered by Dr. Sun Yat-sen at this time to launch an attack at Hueichow, Kwangtong Province.

On the night of August 15, 1899, more than 600 revolutionaries, led by Mr. Cheng, Shih-liang. launched an attack against Polo County from Sanchoutien. Another batch of more than a thousand people joined up to attack Chenlung in which a Manchurian high-ranking officer was captured and the garrison commander was killed. On August 24, they attacked Yunghu and defeated Liu, Pang sheng and Teng, Wan-lin, two General-grade officers of the Manchu Army. Two days later, they besiege Pengkanghsu. On the 28th, they conquered Sandochu where more than 20,000 people joined the revolutionaries, who were ready to make an inroad into the city Amoy.

Unfortunately, the Japanese Government did not support the revolution in China by prohibiting the export of weapons from Taiwan to the revolutionaries in the mainland. Knowing this disadvantageous situation, Dr. Sun Yat-sen was obliged to instruct Cheng Shih-liang to stop the action.

This scene on the east side of the shrine’s main building depicts the Victory at Manchu.

Plaque: MARTYR Lin Jue-min (1887-1911)
Martyr Lin Jue-min, aka Yi-dong, was earnest and wayward in personality. He had aspired to save China by participating in and promoting the revolution. After joining the Tongmenghui (Chinese United League) in Japan, he was trusted confidently by Huang Xin. On the eve of Huang Hua Gang Uprising (the Second Guangzhou Uprising) in 1911, he wrote the most impressive last letter to his wife, preparing to sacrifice himself. During the attack, he led comrades to raid the viceroy office. Wounded, he was captured. Refusing to compromise, he sacrificed himself for the righteous cause.
Sign: The 1911 Revolution
In June 1911, revolutionaries in Wuchang decided that attack should be launched against the city. The attack was scheduled on October 6, but no action was taken because the Manchu forces had put up a strong defense around the city. On October 9, the revolutionary activities were revealed by a bomb explosion accident which led to the capture of dozens of revolutionaries. On the next day, more other activities were also revealed which forced the revolutionary forces of more than 2,000 to launch an attack at 7:00 P.M. At first, the 8th Engineering Battalion seized the arsenal, and other units occupied Chu Wang Tai, while the governor-general ran away. The next day Wuchang was completely controlled by the revolutionary forces. Two days later, Hanyang and Hankow were also occupied by the revolutionary forces. Thus, China's revolution under the leadership of Dr. Sun Yat-sen finally succeeded after 10 times of defeat.
Sign: The Eastern and Northern Expeditions
In 1924, Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek was instructed by Dr. Sun Yat-sen to establish the Whampoa Military Academy in order to train revolutionary cadres. In 1925, students of the academy conducted the Eastern Expedition twice, first defeating warlord Chan, Chung-ming's force and then frustrating other warlord forces in Yunnan and Kueichow Provinces. Shortly afterwards, the revolutionary base in Kwangtung Province was secured. On June 5, 1926, the Executive Committee of Kuomintang passed a proposal, appointing Chiang Kai-shek as the commander-in-chief of the revolutionary forces. On July 1, mobilization order for conducting Northern Expedition was promulgated. On July 9, Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek ordered the start of the Northern Expedition so as to unify China, At this time, the revolutionary forces were warmly welcomed and supported by the Chinese people everywhere. Therefore, in less than two years, the revolutionary forces had successfully completed the mission of Northern Expedition which led to unification of the whole China.
Plaque: MARTYR Qiu Jin (1875-1907)
Martyr Qiu Jin, aka Xuan-qing and Jing-xiong. She began her education when she was small. Strong in national consciousness, her poetry was exceptional. She even called herself Jianhu Nüxia (Woman Warrior of Mirror Lake). She joined Tongmenghui (Chinese United League) in Japan, and became the leader in Zhejiang alliance. In 1907, she conspired with Xu Xi-lin to launch a revolt. Unfortunately, she was arrested due to a leak in their plan. In the prison, she was tortured badly and was forced to make a confession. Refusing to comprise, she uttered the last words, "The autumn rain and wind agonize me so much!" before she sacrificed herself.
Sign: The Eastern Expedition and Suppression of the Warlord Chen, Chung-ming’s Force
In February 1925, warlord Chen, Chung-ming's force attacked Canton for the purpose of subverting the revolutionary government. In order to protect the safety of this revolutionary base. Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek personally led 3,000 student troops of the military academy and other revolutionary forces to attack Chen's force eastward and seized Tungwan and Tanshui. On February 22, Chen's main force, commanded by Lin, Hu, attacked the student troops from the rear but was stopped at Mienhu, After a day's fierce fighting, Chen's main force numbering more than 10,000 was defeated. In June, the revolutionary forces returned to Canton in mopping up other warlord forces around there. By October, Chen's remnants moved southward from southern Fuchien Province, and Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek started the second Eastern Expedition. Chen's force were completely destroyed and the revolutionary base in Kwangtung province was finally secured.
Sign: The Battle in Southern Hupei Province
In July 1926, the Northern Expedition Army seized Changsha, Hsiangyin and Yuehchow, and then spent some time making adjustment and replenishment. On August 26, they started attacking Tingssuchiao defended by warlord Wu, Peifu's 100,000 odd men whose combat effectiveness had, however, been greatly reduced. Wu's force retreated to Hoshengchiao after Tingssuchiao was captured by the Northern Expeditionary Army. Wu attempted to counter attack but was still defeated. From September 6 to October 10, three major cities in Hupei Province-Hanyang, Hankow, and Wuchang-had all been seized by the Northern Expeditionary Army and Wu's force retreated to Honan Province.
Plaque: MARTYR Luo Fu-xing (1886-1914)
Martyr Luo Fu-xin, a native of Guangdong Province, took part in the Revolution 1911 in Guangzhou. Fortunately, he survived. After the establishment of the Republic of China, he was appointed by Dr. Sun Yat-Sen to travel to and organize a political party in Taiwan. Led by Luo, anti-Japanese movements in Taiwan bloomed. The Japanese were cautious of Luo's influence and arrested him in 1913. Luo was hanged and met his fate calmly. In his final letter, he wrote, "I will be commemorated by the people on Taiwan for eternity."
Sign: The Battle of Nanchang
In early September 1926, warlord Sun Chuan-fang had assembled his force in eastern Hupei Province, trying to attack the flank of Northern Expedition Army as the latter was involved in fighting in Wuchang. After defeating Wu Pei-fu's force, Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek decided to destroy Sun's force near Nanchang from three directions. In early November, the left-wing army seized Tehan and Chiuchiang, while the right-wing army approached Nanchang, thus forming an envelopment around that city. On November 5, Generalissimo Chiang ordered launching of general offensive, and after 48 hours offierce fighting, the Northern Expedition Army occupied Nanchang, while Sun's force were defeated. It was the biggest battle since the beginning of the Northern Expedition, thus paving the way for attacking Nanking and Shanghai.

The northeast corner of the main shrine building.

Sign: The Battle of Lungtan
In May 1927, after defeating Sun, Chuan-fang and Chang, Tsungchang's forces, the Northern Expedition Army settled down in the Huaihai area and prepared to move toward Hopei Province. Unfortunately, a two government situation was created by the Chinese Communists, one was in Wuhan, Hupei Province, controlled by the Communists who had infiltrated into the Nationalist Government, and the other one was in Nanking held by the Kuomintang's Nationalist Government, after the KMT had driven the Communists out of the party. For the sake of national unity, Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek retired and the situation became worse immediately. Starting from August 25, Sun Chuan-fang's force with more than 50,000 crossed the Yangtze River and occupied the area around Lungtan, threatening Nanking from the northeast. After 6 days of bloody fighting, Sun's force were defeated and this can be taken as the third fiercest battle. The Northern Expedition Army had fought right after the ones in Tingssuchiao and in Nanchang.
Plaque: MARTYR Yang Guang-sheng (1901-1942)
Martyr Yang Guang-sheng, a native of Wuxing, Zhejiang Province, Holding a Ph.D. degree from an American university, during the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, he was the consul general of the Republic of China in Manila. In January 1942, when the Japanese occupied the Philippines, he and the six staff members of the Chinese embassy were detained in the College of Fine Arts at the Philippines University (Privy Council now), and Fort Santiago. On April 17, 1942, wrongly accused of masterminding of anti Japanese activities, he was shot to death secretly at the depression in the southeast of Manila Chinese Cemetery, After the victory of the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, his corpse was buried in Nanjing Martyr's Cemetery, China. Overseas Chinese also built a martyr monument at the place where he was killed.
Sign: Rendezvous in the Peking-Tientsin Area
In late May 1928. Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek, commander-in-chief of the Northern Expedition Army. decided to use the 1st Army Group (commanded by the Generalissimo himself), the 2nd Army Group (commanded by Feng, Yu-hsiang), the 3rd Army Group (commanded by Yen, Hsi-shan) and the 4th Army Group to attack Peking and Tientsin simuetaneously. The 1st Army Group defeated Chang Tsung-Chang's force north of Tehchow on May 28, and kept a close watch on Tientsin. The 2nd Army Group launched an attack along the entire front on May 28, and reached Nanguan in early June. The 3rd Army Group supported by the 4th Army Group and the 2nd Army Group sandwiched Peking.

On June 4, 1928, warlord Chang, Tso-lin was killed by Japanese bombing, and his force evacuated Peking that day. One June 6, the Nationalist Government appointed General Yan, Hsi-shan commander-in-chief of the garrison force in the area of Peking and Tientsin. He arrived at Peking on June 11, and took over the Peking-Tientsin area without fighting.
Sign: Five Suppression Campaigns against the Chinese Communist Rebellion
Beginning From 1927, the Chinese Communist rebels started several riots which were all suppressed by the Nationalist Army. Then they fled to the border areas in Hunan, Hupei, Anhuei and Kiangsi Provinces, and established the so-called "Soviet" regimes. At that time, the Central Government did not pay much attention to it; however, in less than 2 years, the Communists had expanded their influences widely all around. Facing this situation the Central Government decided to extirpate the Communist rebels.

Starting from December, 1930, the Nationalist Army had launched 5 suppression campaigns against the Communists but failed 4 times. In the 5th offensive, the Nationalist Army adopted fortification tactics and conducted military as well as economic blockade against the Communists. After suffering a series of setbacks, the communists troops fled from southern Kiangsi Province to southwest China and were pressed into northern Shensi Province. The Central Government wanted to continue the pursuit but was stopped by the sian incident and the Japanese invasion of China.
Plaque: MARTYR Liang Dun-hou (1906-1949)
Martyr Liang Dun-hou was a native of Dingxiang, Shanxi Province. In April, 1949, the Chinese communist force sieged Taiyuan city by the human wave attack and firepower tactic with 600,000 people. As the deputy chairman of provincial committee and acting governor of Shanxi Province, he led all the members of the Kuomintang (Nationalist Party) and the government, soldiers, and civilians to resist the attack. With the shedding of blood and considerable sacrifices, this defensive war was unprecedented in history. On the day Taiyuan city fell, he led approximately 500 people to commit suicide collectively to uphold their loyalty and integrity. In modern Chinese history, their act is praised as "Five Hundred Perfect Persons of Taiyuan."
Sign: Suppression of Mutiny in Fukien Province
The courageous fighting against Japanese attack of Shanghai in January 1932 buoyed up the morale in China. However, domestic situation was still bad. Chen, Minshoo, an ambitious man, regarded the 19th Route Army as his strong support, which were transferred to Fukien Province after the Campaign of Shanghai ended. While in Fukien, he conspiremunist followers to form the "Production Democratic Party". On November 20, 1933, "People's Plenary Session" was held in Foochow and the so-called "People's Revolutionary Government of the Chinese Republic" was established at the same time. Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek decided to put down such a muting and, on January 13, 1934, this so-called "People's Government" was destroyed, being in existence for only 53 days.
Sign: The Eight-Year War between ROC and Japan
After the Northern Expedition had completed, China was unified and began to thrive. Realizing that the unified and powerful China would block its expansion, Japan began to intensify its aggression and tried to swallow China gradually. Under this circumstance, China had no choice but to resist against the Japanese aggression. The eight-year war started on the 7th of July in 1937 when the Marco Polo Bridge Incident occurred and ended in 1945. During the eight years, more than 40000 battles took place and caused a heavy casualty of more than 3 million soldiers and 20 million citizens on the Chinese side. The property losses were incalculable. As the war ended, unequal treaties signed with many countries during the Ching Dynasty were at last abolished. China became one of the four major powers of the world.
Sign: The Marco Polo Bridge Incident and Operations in North China
Wanting to bully China for quite a long period, the Japanese feared China and the Soviet Union would someday cooperate militarily in dealing with Japan. The Japanese Kwuntung Expeditionary Army stated that if the Chinese Nationalist government accepted communism and adopted an anti-Japanese policy, they would take whatever action was necessary to safe guard Japanese interests. It clearly indicates that they would expand their aggression in China; however, their immediate objective would be north China. In April 1937, the Japanese reinforced their forces in the area of Peking and Tientsin. In June, General Hideki Tojo, Chief of Staffs of the Japanese Kwuntung Expeditionary Army, said that they should first attack the Nanking Government before attacking the Soviet Union. On July 7, the Japanese troops tried to enter Wanping County but were blocked by the Chinese troops, causing conflicts between the two armies and resulting in the outbreak of the Marco Polo Bridge incident. The Japanese continued to advance and the Chinese resisted but was to no avail, At the end of July, Peking and Tientsin were occupied by the Japanese. And in early September, Taiyuan, Shensi Province, was controlled by the Japanese after they had suffered a setback in northern Shensi Province.
Sign: The Battle of Shanghai
The battle of Shanghai began on August 13, 1937, with the Japanese attack on Chinese garrison force in Shanghai. In early October, the Japanese brought 300,000 reinforcements, and the Chinese also deployed a powerful force of more than 50 divisions to cover the withdrawal of materials westward as well as change Japanese operational direction. Both those two powerful forces were fighting fiercely for 3 months along a narrow strip of land between the Wusung River and the Liu River. Later, a part of the Japanese force landed on Chuankungting, north of the Hangchow Bay, by passing the Wusung River and attacked the rear of the Chinese Army. On November 9, the Chinese army withdrew to the borders of Chekiang, Anhuei and Kiangsi Provinces.
Sign: The Battle of Hsuchow
After seizing Nanking in December 1937, the Japanese armed forces wanted to control the whole Tientsin-Pukou Railroad to facilitate contact between their troops in the north part of China and south part of China and south part of China From February 1938, therefore, the 2nd corps of Japanese North China Expeditionary Army launched attacks southward along the railroad from the north while a part of their Central China Expeditionary Army started attacks northward along the same railway from the south with Hsuchow as their objective. 

On the Chinese side, the operational mission was to delay Japanese advance toward Wuhan and consume their combat strength. So at the beginning of this battle, the Chinese army conducted sustained offensive and won the Taierhchuang battle Later, as the Chinese had already achieved their objective. the main force of the Chinese army withdrew to northern Anhuie Province, leaving behind a small force to fight guerrilla warfare in southern Shantung Province and northern Kiangsu Province And so the two Japanese forces made their rendezvous in Hsuchow on May 19, and the battle was over.
Sign: The Battle of Wuhan
After the Battle of Hsuchow ended, the Japanese chose to in vade Wuhan in order to destroy the Chinese army, so they assembled 12 divisions with 500 combat aircrafts, and a part of their Marine Corps, advancing to ward Wuhan from four directions. In the south of the Yangtze River, a part of the Japanese forces went south ward along the Nanhsun Railway in order to protect their left flank; another part went westward along the Jueiwu Road, bypassing Wuchang in the South. In the north of the Yangtze River, one part advanced toward Hankow along the north bank of the river; another part advanced toward Hsiny ang along the foot of Tapieh. Meanwhile, the Japanese fleet sailed toward Wuhan along the Yangtze River. The Chinese army had deployed in depth around Wuhan to meet the approaching enemy. Having had much superior weapons and equipments, the Japanese troops advanced ambitiously and enveloped Wuhan on both sides. Facing such a disadvantageous situation, the Chinese army retreated toward the west and gave up Wuhan so as to safeguard the rear of southwest China.
Plaque: MARTYR Sa Shi-jun (1896-1938)
Martyr Sa Shi-jun, a native of Fujian Province, had aspired to construct China into a better place since his adolescence. Likewise, he devoted himself in joining the Chinese navy. As the captain of the Zhongshan warship, he fought bravely against the Japanese invasion in the Battle of Wuhan by giving the ground troops the maximum support. Completing the mission successfully, his ship was anchored at Jinkuo, he was spotted and bombed by Japanese planes repeatedly. Sa and his troop resisted the Japanese attack for nine hours. Unfortunately, both the bow and stern of the shop were hit, and the crews were either wounded or killed. Injured seriously, he continued to command his crews bravely even with his legs broken. Finally, Commander Sa sacrificed his life along with his ship for his country.
Sign: The Third Battle of Changsha
After initiating the Pacific War by raiding the Pearl Harbor, the Japanese armed forces swept the whole south Pacific, seizing Guam, Hongkong and Manila successively, and thrusting toward Burma. On the China battlefield, however, they had suffered setbacks. On December 24, 1941, the Japanese Troops assembled about 120,000 men and crossed the Hsinchiang River, advancing to ward Changsha, The Chinese army were deployed in a pocket defense around Changsha, preparing to envelop the Japanese still headed for Changsha, All Chinese forces, however, were ready in attack posture and fought to the lost blood, From January 4 to 15, 1942, Japanese had suffered a heavy casualty of more than 56,000 men. All enemies south of Hsinchiang River were wiped out. This is the so-called Third Triumph in Changsha, and also the first victory of the Allied Countries, British and United states expressed their compliments unanimously.
Sign: Operations in Northern Burma
After the Japanese occupied Malaya, Thailand surrendered. Then the Japanese forces with more than 100,000 men invaded Vietnam via Thailand, while the main force landed on Rangoon, and then advanced toward northern Burma At the invitation of the Allied Headquarters, the Chinese Government sent 3 corps to Burma to help the British troops, thus saved the British from being destroyed by the Japanese. However, the Chinese forces were forced to retreat into India by superior Japanese army, In the spring of 1944, Chinese 1st New Corps and the 2nd New Corps stationed in India launched a counterattack toward northern Burma in order to open the China-India Highway. Under the support of the allied air force and engineers, the Chinese fought a fierce battle with the Japanese at Taipaichia and then captured Mogaung and Myitkyina. At this time, another 5 corps commanded by General Wei, Li-huang crossed the Salween River and then launched an offensive toward western Yunnan, capturing Tengchung. On January 27, 1945, this force made rendezvous with Chinese forces fighting in India at Mongyu thus completing the task of opening the China-India Highway.
Plaque: MARTYR Gao Zhi-hang (1908-1937)
Martyr Gao Zhi-hang, a native of Liaoning Province, aspired to fly high when he was young. As such, he entered the Chinese Air Force Academy, in which he topped in scholastic records. On August 14, 1937 when Japanese aircrafts launched a huge-scale raid against Hangzhou, he led his pilots to intercept and destroyed most of the enemies' planes. It was the origin of the honorable day "August 14 Memorial Day". In November the same year, Major General Gao led his force to fly back from Lanzhou to Nanjing. On November 21, he garrisoned at Zhoujaikou station, where the Japanese planes attacked unexpectedly. He rushed into his plane immediately, attempting to take off. But the engine failed to start three times. Major General Gao was killed in his own plane caught in the enemies' crossfire.
Sign: The Battle of Changsha-Hengyang
In 1944, the Japanese encountered a series of defeat at sea in the Pacific. Back on the land, in order to contain Allied counterattack against northern Burma and western Yunnan Province of China, the Japanese launched the 4th attack against Changsha with a force of some 170,000 men. Commanded by Gen. Sahie Nagaken, the enemy launched a two-pronged offensive southward from Kiangsi and Hupei. At this time, the Japanese still left their second front army unused. After going through a fierce battle, the Chinese army abandoned Changsha in order to conduct a decisive battle with the Japanese at Hengyang. The Chinese army held the city for 47 days before the Japanese came in with a heavy casualty of more than 19,300 men. This battle had delayed the Japanese to open the Hankow-Canton Railway.
Plaque: MARTYR Zhang Zhi-zhong (1891-1940)
Martyr Zhang Zhi-zhong, a native of Linqing, Shandong Province, contributed significantly and repeatedly in fighting against the Japanese invasion during the the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression. In October 1938, he was appointed the Army Group Commander. In May 1940, when the Japanese troops invaded Hupei Province from three directions, General Zhang resisted the invasion with determination. He fought bravely, giving the enemy fatal attack. Unfortunately, he was shot and died at Nanguadian, Yicheng. He was the highest-ranked officer died in the war in resisting the Japanese invasion. The government honored him with the first "Top Eulogistic and Commemorative citation of Honor" in addition to being enshrined in the Martyrs Shrine.
Sign: Counter offensive Operations in Kueilin and Luichow
In May 1945, Japanese forces in the Chinese mainland were severely blunted after suffering setbacks in western Hunan. Meanwhile, American forces had conquered Jima and Ryukyu lslands, thus seriously threatening the Japanese homeland. At this time, the Chinese forces had almost completed equipping themselves with American weapons and were ready to launch a counterattack against Kueilin and Luichow. A part of the 2nd Chinese Front Army advanced toward the east of Kueilin to capture Yungning. A part of the 3rd Front Army went along the Liuyi Road to recover Liuchow, And the main force of the 3rd Front Army pushed along the Kueilin-Canton Road to conquer Kueilin. After May 27, the Chinese forces recovered all these major cities and continued thrusting toward western Kwangtung Province, while the Japanese forces at this time were almost at the end of an arrow's flight and fail to resist Chinese counter offensive.
Sign: Recovery of Yenan-Communist’s Stronghold
After the conclusion of World War II, General Hu Tsung-nan, commander of the ROC 1 st War Area, was instructed to strike the Communists with the mainobjective of capturing Yenan, Shensi Province, the Chicoms' stronghold. The ROC army stationed in eastern Kansu Province started a frontal feint attack against the Communist rear on March 13, 1947, while the ROC Air Force launched a destructive bombing against all military targets around Yenan. On the 14th, the lst and 29th Corps under the command of General Hu, Tsung-nan advanced toward Yenan from two directions supported by air force combat planes, thus playing havoc with the Communist positions. On the 18th, the 1 st Brigade of the 1 st Reorganized Division entered Yenan first, followed by other units. The whole nation became jubilant immediately after this news was announced.
Plaque: MARTYR Huang Bai-tao (1899-1948)
Martyr Huang Bai-tao, a native of Guangdong, migrated to and settled down Tianjin, where his father was appointed an official. He joined the army at a young age, performed brilliantly. Later, he furthered his studies in the Special Program at the Army College. He fought in the battles of fighting against the rebels, communists, and Japanese, as well as joined the counterinsurgency operations. Accomplished significantly in various battles, he was honored the Order of the Blue Sky and White Sun.

In the winter of 1948, in the Battle of Xubeng, he acted as the Commander of the 7th Army, and guarded the Nianzhuang. Fighting severely against the communist army for twenty days, both the ammunition and food were exhausted. General Huang ended his own life for the honor of being a soldier and for the country.
Sign: Suppression of the Chinese Communists Rebellion
During the Sino-Japanese War in World War II, the Chinese Communists took advantage of this opportunity to expand their influence. After the conclusion of World War II. they expanded their strength more wilfully. In July '1947, the Central Government issued national mobilization order to suppress Communist rebellion. As the Communists became stronger and stronger, a series of fierce battles were fought between the Nationalist Army and the Communist forces in North China. In January 1948, the Central Government shifted to regional defense strategy by dividing the whole area south of the Yellow River into 20 pacific regions to facilitate suppression of the Communist forces scheduled to be completed in about 2 years. Unfortunately, as the Communist became more and more powerful at the end of 1948, most areas in North China were fallen into the Communist hands. And in early 1949, the ROC forces lost one of the most important battles-the battle of Hsuchow and since then, situations were deteriorating rapidly. In less than a year, the whole China mainland were usurped by the Communists. Then, the ROC Government moved to Taiwan to begin building a strong bastion from where counter-attack would be launched some day to recover the lost mainland.
Sign: The Battle of Tengpu Island
In October 1949, Tengpu was the only island held by the ROC forces in the Choushan Archipelago. On October 30, the Chicom's 61st Division landed on Tengpu. and a fierce fighting broke out between the attacker and the defender (the 221st Division of the ROC Army). On November 4, the island was almost captured by the Chicoms when the 224th Regiment landed and launched an attack. At wight, the 224th Regiment had advanced to the central part of the island when the 200th Regiment and 119th Regiment came to its rescue. Then all these forces launched a general offensive and recaptured the island on the 6th of November, 1949.
Plaque: MARTYR Qiu Qing-quan (1902-1949)
Martyr Qiu Qing-quan, a native of Zhejiang, graduated from the class of 1925 at the Whampao Military Academy. He fought in the Eastward Expedition, Northern Expedition and the suppression of Chinese communists. Furthered his training in Germany for three years, he was keen on mechanized warfare tactics. During the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, Martyr Qiu resisted the Japanese force bravely with inferior mechanized troops; however, he launched the Japanese army fatal attacks for several times. Later, the Chinese communist army rebelled against the Central Government in the Counterinsurgency Operations, Martyr Qiu fought in the Yellow River flood area with significant achievements. Likewise, he was promoted to the Commander of the 2nd Army. In the spring of 1949, encountering setbacks in the Battle of Xubeng, he committed suicide.
Sign: The Battle of Kuningtou on Kinmen
On the night of October 24 1949, after the whole mainland in October 1949 fallen into their hands, the Communist forces mustered more than 10,000 men and landed on Kuningtou, Kinmen, supported by their naval craft. At dawn the next day, the 201st Divison of the ROC Army fought fiercely against Communist forces at Lungkou, while the 118th Division tried to destroy the Communists at Kuanyinting hill. But the main force, including the 18th, 28th, and 14th Divisions, launched a counterattack toward Kuningtou. By this time, other Communist forces conducted subsequent landing at the northern end of Kuningtou beach and were stopped by the 14th Division. At dusk on the 26th,the 18th Division, supported by superior fire power, recovered the last foothold held by the Communists. On the 27th, the Communist remnants surrendered, thus ending this battle with a major victory on the part of ROC Army.

The west side of the main shrine building mirrors the east side in design.

Sign: The Kinmen Bombardment of August 23, 1958
At 18:30 P.M. on August 23 1958, the Chicoms artillery of more than 300 pieces deployed on islands opposite Kinmen launched a surprise bombardment against Kinmen. At the same time, the Chicoms Navy and Air Force blockaded Kinmen in an attempt to smother all the people, some 130,000 military and civilian population, on the island by cutting off their supplies from Taiwan, This bombardment came to a halt at midnight on October 5, lasting 44 days, during which a total of about 474,900 rounds of shells were fired by the Communist artillery. In the same period, 4 naval encounters and 10 air fightings were also occurred between the opposing forces. On the ground, at sea, and in the air, the ROC forces had won a brilliant victory which laid a solid foundation in securing not only Taiwan but also the Pacific Region.
Plaque: MARTYR Xiong Qi-lao (1917-1946)
Martyr Xiong Qi-lao, a native of Changsha, Hunan Province, completed his elementary education only. He joined the army at an early age, and took part in many battles of suppressing the Chinese communists, the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, and counterinsurgency operations. In 1946, he served as a staff sergeant in the Second Infantry Division, and was appointed to participate in the counterinsurgency operations in northeastern China. On November 25, 1946, the Nationalist Revolutionary Army attacked the Motian Mountain and combated with Lin Biao's troops severely. Martyr Xiong led his squad to engage in a hand-to-hand combat with Lin's troops. Wounded, he crawled towards the enemies and blocked the muzzle of a machine gun with his body to minimize the death and casualties of his squad, sacrificing himself.

After reaching the west side of the main shrine building, we visited the western hall. This one focused on military martyrs of the Republic of China.

Sign: Military-Martyrs’ Shrine
Area and height: The total area is 403 square meters, with the height of 13 meters.

Structure: Reinforced concrete structure with a glazed tile roof and a ceiling covered with Chinese colored paintings.

Enshrinement: In this shrine, the officers and soldiers in the Chinese Army, Navy and Air-force who joined the Eastern Expedition, the Northern Expedition, the Campaigns to Suppress the Chinese communist insurgency, the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression the Counter-insurgency Operations against the Communists are commemorated. For the generals, each one of them is commemorated with a single tablet. As for the field and company grade officers, one tablet is established for every one hundred of them. For the non-commissioned officers and enlisted soldiers, collective rosters are archived in the boxes.

Ritual: During the spring and autumn ceremony every year, the Minister of National Defense will host the ceremonies, accompanied by the chief of the General Staff, the commanders in-chief of the Army, Navy and Air Force and commanders of Military Police Command and Information, Communications and Electronic Force Command and Armed Forces Reserve Command to commemorate these martyrs.

We walked around the remainder of the west side of the courtyard, ending up opposite of the main shrine building. It was almost 10am and we could see people gathering for the upcoming 10am guard change ceremony. We decided to watch it from an elevated position here to the southwest of the center of the shrine.

This was a pretty good place to watch from as we could see above everyone’s heads. The guards here are precise in their movements and act as one. It is much more impressive than the guard changes we saw in front of the Old Royal Palace in Athens. Sorry, Greece,

Like the video we recorded before, it was hot and humid as we watched the guards. Sweat was coming down like rain but there was nothing I could do until it was over!

The ceiling above.

There were two large artworks, not sure what the proper term is, on either side of the inner gate at the south side of the courtyard. We photographed them on our way out.

Text: The Battle of Shanghai
After the Marco Polo Bridge Incident happened on July 7, 1937, Japanese troops continually pushed southward from Tlentsin-Pukow Railway and Ping-han Railway. In order to distract the Japanese troops from moving the front from the north to the south, Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek worked to push the front from the east to the west to cover the seaboard factories in moving its materials to the hinterland for the benefit of long-term warfare, Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek lured the invaders with a large army and drove them into Shanghai. They fought bravely for more than three months, and annihilated about 60 thousand of invaders. Then, the army mobilized towards Nanjing. In this battle, the National Revolution Army fought extremely bravely.
Text: Guangzhou Uprising
On March 29, 1911, Dr. Sun Yat-Sen plotted to launch the 10th uprising in Guangzhou. Huang Xin led the comrades to assault the viceroy office. Due to a leak, this action failed. However, this failure triggered off the trend of nation-wide revolts. In less than a year, the Wuchang Uprising overthrew the Qing Government and ended its regime. Then, the first democratic China - the Republic of China was born.

There was a small crowd by the main gate to the south as the guard change was now happening there.

We went into the two pavilions outside of the inner gate to take a closer look as we had walked past them earlier. Each one held a bust of a martyr.

Plaque: MARTYR Lu Hao-dong (1868-1895)
Martyr Lu Hao-dong, aka Zhong-gul, born in Guangdong Province, had been ambitious since his adolescence. He assisted Dr. Sun Yat-Sen in advocating the national revolution, and notably designed "The Blue Sky and White Sun" flag. In 1895, he took part in the first revolt in Guangzhou, and was captured by Qing officials due to its failure. Unwilling to compromise, Lu chivalrously surrendered his life. Dr. Sun Yat-Sen praised: "He was the first fighter sacrificed for our national revolution."
Plaque: MARTYR Shi Jian-ru (1879-1900)
Martyr Shi Jian-ru, aka Wen-wei, was born in Guangdong Province. Being the descendant of Shi Ke-Fa, a martyr in the Ming Dynasty, avowed to promote the national revolution when he was young. Likewise, he joined the Xing Zhong Hui (Revive China Society), and visited Dr. Sun Yat-Sen in Japan to discuss plans for the national revolution. In 1900, he conspired to assassinate De-Shou, the Viceroy of Liangguang (Guangdong and Guangxi). The mission failed and he was captured by Qing officials. Sacrificed himself for democracy, he calmly faced his death penalty. Dr.Sun Yat-Sen commended him as "The second able fighter sacrificed for the national cause."

The inner gate as seen from in front of the western pagoda.

The main gate was now devoid of other visitors. There are very few who actually walk through the inner areas of the shrine.

Afternoon

We headed over to our next destination, Shanghai Country Restaurant, by bus. We were originally planning on taking the bus to the MRT station and then taking the MRT. However, the bus we were on happened to be one that was going to pass by near where we were headed. The bus takes a much longer time compared to the MRT but the air conditioning was strong, the bus was basically empty, and we were already comfortably seated. We rode the bus to the stop by the 善導寺 Shandao Temple MRT station.

We were still early. So, we headed into a Starbucks around the corner. We bought a drink, mainly to be able to sit inside. This location is currently listed as a Starbucks Reserve on Google Maps, however, it is simply a regular Starbucks.

We only a photographed a few of the items that we had at 上海鄉村 Shanghai Country Village Restaurant. We were here with a large group and had a variety of dishes.

After lunch, we had wo cold teas from Ten Ren Tea 天仁茗茶 in the Syntrend shopping mall. This mall has shops that sell a wide variety of technology items. As for the tea, it was from an actual tea shop that sells tea leaves and also tea drinks in the basement food court.

Evening

Next, we headed over to the 全佳樂釣蝦場 Quanjiale Shrimp Fishing Farm. This is an indoor facility with a large basin of water in the middle of the room, kind of like a shallow swimming pool. It is supplied with shrimp, which are occasionally refilled. You’re given a tiny fishing rod along with some bait, which are basically tiny little shrimp. They seem to be the tiny shrimp used for dried shrimp, an ingredient used in Asian cooking and also may be used in gumbo.

We did two fishing rods for six of us. These are all the shrimp that we managed to catch while we were there. After you’re done fishing, you have the option of returning the shrimp alive to be reused for a small discount, or they can cook them for you. We decide to eat them! They were actually pretty good!

After fishing, we visited 曾家豆漿 Tseng Family Soy Milk, which was nearby. There was a short queue outside of the small shop and two ovens filled with egg tarts. We took our order to a nearby FamilyMart, which had tables, to eat.

We got some cold sweet soy milk.

And, of course, egg tarts. Both were good, though the egg tarts were a bit unusual as they were more like steamed egg and were also very deep.

We then walked to the MRT station to take the MRT to 松山 Songshan. Songshan Station is right by the 饒河夜市 Raohe Night Market. We visited this night market during our last visit to Taipei.

As we were starting from the east end of the night market, we first joined the queue for 福州世祖胡椒餅 Fuzhou Ancestor Pepper Pie. The product here is probably best referred to as a pepper bing, which typically ends up being translated to the English word pancake. Its nothing like a pancake. It is similar in concept to a meat pie though but with a different shell.

The pepper bings are served as soon as they are ready. This is the limiting factor in queue speed as they can only make them so fast. As a result, they’re extremely hot! We probably should have photographed one after taking a bite so to expose the interior. Maybe next time!

Our next stop was a shop where we had braised pork rice, stinky tofu, and oyster omelette. It was mostly just OK.

We also visited a stand where we had Taiwanese sausage. This is the first time we’ve actually had this from a night market. It was, well, sausage. Not particularly photogenic unfortunately.

We also had some toasted dry squid.

We then stopped at 台北炸蛋蔥油餅 Taipei Bomb Scallion Pancake. In this case, they serve a variation of scallion pancakes, which are flat, giving the pancake name some meaning as a description of the product’s appearance.

This is basically a fried scallion pancake with egg, rolled up and served in a little paper wrapper. This is not the first time we’ve had something described as a bomb scallion pancake. During our last visit to Taipei, we visited 北投炸彈蔥油餅 Beitou Bomb Scallion Pancake in Beitou. That one seemed to puff up more while it was being cooked. But the end product was served similarly.

We walked through the night market until we reached the western end. From there, we decided to walk back to the W as it really wasn’t too far away.

About two-thirds of the way back, we reached the area we were at two nights ago on the 11th. We’re not sure if this neighborhood has a name but it is basically the northern section of Xinyi. It was much later today though at around 9:45pm and stores were either closing or about to close.

We decided to get tea from COMEBUY, a chain from Taiwan. They seem to be the same parent company as COMEBUYTEA, which features different branding.

The difference might be that COMEBUY is more of a standard bubble tea shop while COMEBUYTEA uses fancy espresso-style pressure tea infusion machines to quickly brew tea.

We made it back to the W at around 10pm.

Saturday, June 14th

Morning

Another morning, another round of breakfast at the W. We didn’t have room to eat much! Just a few of the tastiest items.

There were some clouds in the sky but it looked like the weather would be nice… Nice and humid…

Afternoon

In the afternoon, we ended up at the Far Eastern SOGO Zhongxiao department store to the northeast of the Zhongxiao Fuxing MRT station.

We visited 大師兄銷魂麵舖 Master Spicy Noodle, which seems to be their official name, in the busy food court where we had the Mild Beef Soup Xiao-Hun Noodles with Sliced Beef, Duck Blood, and Soft-Boiled Egg. The dry noodles and soup are consumed separately here. It was pretty decent.

While walking through the food court, we spotted a matcha shop, 茶茶小王子 Matcha Little Prince. We got matcha and hojicha soft serves as there was a BOGO offer. The large amount of powder as well as color was promising. Unfortunately, the matcha soft serve’s matcha flavor was pretty weak. The quest for excellent matcha soft serve is unfortunately often quite disappointing.

Later on, we ended up at Taipei 101 where we had Tao Tao Tea once again. Somehow, its always satisfying!

We then went to dinner at 天下三絕麵食館 Tien Hsia San Chueh , which we’ve visited before.

We had the standard Taiwanese beef noodle soup.

We also got their special beef noodle soup. This one was much more expensive than the standard bowl, which was very roughly $10 USD. When you order this bowl, they put down a special cloth placemat. It also took much longer than everything else to arrive. But it was very good. While the price was certainly expensive for Taiwan, this would be quite a bargain in the US!

Tonight, after returning to our suite in the W, we noticed that Taipei 101 was displaying a special advertisement for the Metropolitan Museum of Art, aka the MET. There is currently an exhibition going on at the National Palace Museum, From Impressionism to Early Modernism: French Masterpieces from the Robert Lehman Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Sunday, June 15th

Morning

After waking up at the W, we once again had breakfast. Like yesterday morning, we didn’t have room to eat too much.

The weather looked even better today with significantly less clouds in the sky.

We headed over by bus to Taipei’s famous ChiaTe bakery to buy their pineapple cakes as well as take a look at some of their other products. The bus ride takes just 10 minutes, along with a bit of walking to get to the bakery from the Nanjing Apartments bus stop near the Nanjing Sanmin MRT station. ChiaTe is quite famous and typically has a long queue. We got there early enough that while the queue was already somewhat long, we at least didn’t have to wait out in the sun!

We ended up buying quite a bit, mostly pineapple cakes to give as gifts but some items as well to keep. A complimentary box was provided to help carry everything that we bought! We originally thought we would just take the box onto the bus back to the W. It was super hot walking to the bus stop though and we ended up deciding to just take an Uber back instead.

Our box of goodies!

We bought a few items to eat during the remainder of our time here in Taipei.

ChiaTe’s most famous item is their Pineapple Pastry, more commonly known in English as pineapple cake and a Taiwanese specialty.

We also got a variety of other flavors. Out of all of these, the worst ended up being the strawberry as it didn’t really have any noticeable strawberry test. The others, it really depends on your taste preferences.

There is a special box for the non-pineapple flavors. You can mix and match however you want.

National Taiwan Museum

We headed back out to visit the 國立臺灣博物館 National Taiwan Museum. To get there, we took the MRT west to 臺北 Taipei Main Station. From there, we walked a few blocks to the southwest.

There was a bull sculpture at the entrance.

The museum was just ahead. Well, it almost feels like we’re back in Athens or Rome!

We headed inside and bought tickets from the ticket office. The entrance fee is 30 NTD, or about $1 USD.

After buying our tickets, we continued on to end up in a central atrium.

The first room we entered on the ground floor had an exhibition about puppets. While we aren’t particularly interested in the subject, we went in to take a quick look around.

We saw some historical puppets and some newer examples as well. The character that looks like it would be at home in a video game seems to be 素還真 Su Huan-Jen, the main character of 霹靂 Pili, a Taiwanese TV show. Based on the description, it seems to be a puppet show made with CG rather than actual puppets. There is apparently a remake, Pili Fantasy: War of Dragons, that is available on Netflix, though it does not seem to be available in the US.

The next part of the museum had examples of the fauna of Taiwan.

We recognized these little fellas! Eurasian Tree Sparrows are, as the name suggests, found in Europe and Asia. They resemble male House Sparrows other than some minor differences in appearance. There is apparently a small invasive population in the US, though there are significantly fewer than the invasive House Sparrows.

Meow!

Who knew Taiwan have decently sized deer?

We headed up to the second floor.

This ink stamp, typically described in English as a seal, was for the Japanese Governor-General of Taiwan.

There was also a flag of the Republic of China.

Text: The Blood Flag of Anti-Communist Heroes in Korea
The Korean War of 1950-53 marked the start of the conflict between democracy and Communism after World War II. China sent troops across the Yalu River to assist North Korea. The Nationalist Government in Taiwan did not participate in the war, but tried to persuade Chinese Communist prisoners of war to defect through international propaganda. After the war, the first batch of Chinese prisoners (the "anti-communist heroes" ) came to Taiwan on August 19, 1953. The largest group of "anti-communist heroes" arrived on January 23m, 1954, and took part in the Prisoner Release Ceremony, witnessed by Taiwan, South Korea and the United States. This movement of "anti-communist heroes defecting to freedom" revived the low-spirited Nationalist Government. This movement was later commemorated with the establishment of "123 Freedom Day" (January 23rd). During their imprisonment in the War, these "anti-communist heroes" wrote many letters and made many flags, signing them with blood to show their loyalty to Taiwan. In 1954, blood letters and flags totaling over 600 items were donated to the National Taiwan Museum by the Free China Relief Association and Friends of the Armed Forces Association.

This signed document, which seems to be a copy, was particularly interesting. It is the Sino-American Mutual Defense Treaty and was signed by the US Secretary of State, John Foster Dulles.

One thing we didn’t realize was that there were actually two Dulles brothers. This is the one that the Washington Dulles International Airport was named after. His brother, Alan Dulles, was head of the CIA.

These pens seem to be real though. They were used to sign the actual treaty!

Text: The Pens That Signed the Sino-American Mutual Defense Treaty
After the Korean War ended in 1953, the USA established a mutual defense mechanism in East Asia with Japan, South Korea, and Southeast Asian countries. On December 2,1954, Foreign Minister George Kung-chao Yeh and US Secretary of State John Dulles signed the "Sino-American Mutual Defense Treaty" at the US Department of State in Washington, D.C. On March 3, 1955, the treaty, with ten articles in both traditional Chinese and English, was exchanged at Zhongshan auditorium in Taipei and came into effect. Before the USA established the "Taiwan Relations Act" in the late 1970s, the treaty was a cornerstone stabilizing the cross-strait status quo and bringing far-reaching influences to Taiwan.

In addition to the original copies of the treaty kept at the National Palace Museum, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs has donated to the NTM the fountain pen that Yeh used in the signing and the pens and brushes used in the exchange of the treaty that witnessed this historic event.

There were also two photos of the signing. This treaty is of course now defunct and the current official US policy of strategic ambiguity.

We continued walking through the second floor of the musuem.

The MIT here represents Made in Taiwan.

The third floor was something of an attic or loft area.

There were some displays from Taiwan’s indigenous population.

There were also more animal displays.

We headed back down to the ground floor to exit the museum.

There were some items on display outside as well.

Sign: Outdoor Stone Tools, translated using Google Translate
In the process of civilization development, human beings are good at using natural resources to survive. Because of its hard texture and easy access, they have developed the use of stone to make production tools, shape different lifestyles, and even derive amazing skills. In addition to the technology contained in the stone production skills, it can also reproduce the lifestyle of early people through the material culture produced by stone tools, depict the life experience and social development trajectory in a specific time and space, and depict the cultural image of early folk society.

Folk stone tools have many types due to the development of time and space, which can be roughly divided into the following five categories:

1. Agricultural tools: stone mortars, stone mills, stone foundations, stone pestles, etc. are used for shelling or processing grains.

2. Furniture: stone houses, stone benches, stone stoves, stone furnaces, stone basins, stone jars, stone tables, stone well enclosures, and stone troughs for feeding.

3. Industry: peanut wheels, sugarcane wheels, stone powder wheels, cloth mills, and measuring tools such as measuring weights and public buckets.

4. Architecture: Buildings or building components made of stone, such as stone houses, stone door frames, stone windows, stone walls, stone railings, stone slabs, stone wheels, stone pillar beads, stone for city construction, horse tying stones, flagpole bases, etc.

5. Religious art and other categories: Stone carvings for worship, commemoration or appreciation, such as stone earth god temples, stone statues, stone tombstones, stone incense burners, stone archways, stone tablets, and jade as ornaments.

This exhibition area mainly exhibits three types of stone tools, including farm tools, furniture and industry. Due to the special hardness of stone tools, many early tools are more likely to be passed down, and some stone tools are still used today.

The sign translated surprisingly well into English. Translation of Chinese text is often hilariously bad.

We walked under this gate to the east to begin making our way to the 台大醫院 NTU Hospital MRT station.

There was a rectangular pond to the southeast with a pagoda at its center. There were also four pavilions, one at each corner of the pond.

We spotted a turtle in the pond!

We walked through the area pretty quickly as it was blazing hot under the sun. We briefly took a look at the southwestern pavilion on the way.

The tall pointy object is the 二二八和平紀念碑 228 Peace Monument. The 228 here refers to February 28, 1947, when an uprising in Taiwan was violently crushed by the by the Nationalist Government. The park around this monument and actually within the entire large block which includes the National Taiwan Museum is the 二二八和平紀念公園 228 228 Peace Memorial Park.

We spotted a squirrel on a tree on our way out of the park.

A Joy

We took the MRT over to Taipei 101. We will be having a late lunch, or perhaps early dinner, at A Joy, a buffet restaurant on the 86 floor of Taipei 101.

We still had some time though so decided to get some tea from Tao Tao Tea. There is often a queue to order. And then, there is often a wait for the drinks to be prepared. This pretty wall is right by the shop in the area where the queue ends up.

Today, we ordered lychee green tea with chia jelly and lemon rose ice tea with tapioca pearls. Its rare that we actually recall what we got! Its also rare for us to get things in the tea!

After finding a place to sit down and enjoy our teas, it was time for the A Joy reservation. The way it works is that you go to a desk in Taipei 101 near one of the ground floor entrances to check in. You then take an express elevator up to one of the higher floors and then transfer to a different elevator to get to the 86th floor. This does seem like it is part of the normal office area of the building. It can take a while to get there due to having to queue for elevators.

The buffet was huge. Some of the stations were pretty busy with long queues while others were not. On the first plate, we got mainly crab and sashimi as well as a good sized scallop.

There was also a station where they served seared salmon and A5 Wagyu beef. You can request any quantity that you would like and it is seared upon order.

Next, half of a small lobster and another scallop.

There were also various meat selections.

Out of all the crab options, the king crab pieces were the best.

They also had xiaolongbao and uni.

The seared items were actually some of the best things here. We went back for more.

A soup…

This is a Buddha Jumps Over the Wall but with a pastry cap. It is actually conceptually reminiscent of the seafood pasta pignatella we had in Locarno a few weeks ago!

Some more sashimi…

And more seared sushi…

Finally, desserts! The way dining works here is that there are multiple seatings a day. You’re free to eat as much as you want during your seating. Once the time slot is over, everyone leaves and the restaurant is essentially completely cleaned up for the next seating.

They gave out complimentary post cards which could be mailed for free.

Thursday, June 26th, 2025

Our postcard arrived just eleven days later! That’s extremely good for a standard piece of international mail!

The mailbox, or rather mail slot, was fancy!

The view is of course fantastic as we are on the 86th floor of Taipei 101. Taipei 101 is by far the tallest building in Taipei. Even on the 86th floor, we’re well above everything else.

We can see most of Taipei 101 from our room at the W. So, of course, we should be able to see the W from here. It is the building that has a very prominent red section on the lower floors. Our room should be somewhere above that red part.

Of course, we had to eat more Tao Tao Tea after we went back down to ground level! This time, we got the lychee Ceylon tea.

It was already dark out as we started walking back to the W.

Taipei 101, as seen from an elevated walkway.

We looked down up some buskers.

There was a nice mural-like display on one of the buildings that we walked by. And, below that, Venice! The Piazza San Marco! We were just there!

When we were last here between Christmas and New Year’s Day, it was much quieter. It was also cooler though not cold and there was a Christmas Tree!

We recorded a tiny bit video while we were walking tonight. While it was a little bit lively, it was still pretty quiet compared to for example Seoul’s Hongdae.

There isn’t too much greenery in this area, but there is some!

The rainbow-colored Love Love display on the entrance to the Xinyi Breeze, the shopping mall just to the east of the W.

Once again, the fantastic view of Taipei 101 from our suite in the evening.

Monday, June 16th

Morning

We caught quite a bit of beautiful color in the sky when we woke up this morning at the W!

The clouds were illuminated a bit as the Sun continued to rise. So far, this has been the best sunrise of the trip.

We headed downstairs for breakfast one last time as this is our last full day in Taipei. We will check out later in the day.

National Palace Museum

We decided to go visit the 國立故宮博物院 National Palace Museum today. There are various public transit options for getting there with the fastest involving taking the MRT to get closer and then going the rest of the way by bus. We decided to go entirely by bus through from the W via the BL7 line, which departs from one of the bus stands on the north side of the W. This is actually this bus’ entire route and takes about 50 minutes.

Upon arriving, the first thing we saw was a series of wide stairs with a large gate above.

Once we walked up the stairs, we got a better view of the gate and the museum’s main building in the distance.

Although there is a historic look to everything here, the buildings are not historic. It was built as a museum in the 60s to house the collection of artifacts that were brought over from mainland China from the original Palace Museum in Beijing during the Republic of China’s retreat to Taiwan.

Two large 石獅 Stone Lions guard the path.

While this area isn’t exactly remote, it is at the edge of the urbanized area of Taipei.

The view looking back to the south.

According to the inscription, 中華民國八十一年八月吉日國立故宫博物院鑄鼎, this ding was casted on the 81st year of the ROC in August. This would be 1992 in the Gregorian calendar.

We ascended up stairs to the side to the next level above the bronze vessel.

Looking down, this is yet another place where people throw coins!

There are additional galleries in the buildings to the west of the path that we just walked on to arrive here.

Taiwan is extremely green once you get away from the urban jungle.

The museum’s main building looks pretty huge from here!

The western wing of the museum.

This looks like the view before when we walked up above the bronze vessel but we’re actually one further level up compared to then.

The main building of the museum, as seen from directly in front.

We headed inside to buy tickets, which can be done via a ticket vending machine.

This is actually the museum’s 100th anniversary since its original opening date in Beijing.

We also got maps, in English and Chinese, from one of the counters inside of the entrance hall. It was still pretty early when we arrived, only about 15 minutes after the museum’s 9am opening time. So, we decided to go to the 3rd floor, room 302, to see the best of the museum’s collections.

Sign: (Title Unknown)
Jade material is tough and hard by nature, so much so that ordinary metal tools cannot hope to make a mark upon it. The ancients believed that jade represented the resilient essence of the mountains and rivers, and in their reverence of this material, they conferred upon jade a special status as the preserver of integrity and virtue. As a result, for some eight thousand years, generations of jade master craftspeople have devoted their all to carving and polishing new worlds out of fragments of jade material, creating magnificent masterpieces that have been passed down through the ages, including sacred objects embodying divine power, ritual instruments signifying social order, rare treasures, and ingenious curios.

Five popular national treasures have been selected for this Exhibition, and will be rotated on display. Of these, the two jade great seals of "His Majesty at Seventy" and "His Majesty at Eighty" represent the concept of demonstrating virtue through treasure; the Jade Tri-Ring Symbolizing Heaven, Earth, and Humanity presents a traditional view of the universe; the Jadeite Cabbage demonstrates highly ingenious design; and the Meat-shaped Stone illustrates the uncanny power of nature.

This is the 翠玉白菜 Jadeite Cabbage. It even has a Wikipedia page! It is exactly what it sounds like! It is extremely detailed and realistic.

Sign: Jadeite Cabbage
The Jadeite Cabbage is one of the most well-known exhibits at the National Palace Museum, and its creator made ingenious use of the natural jade coloring to craft the white portions into the translucent body of the cabbage, and the green portions into luscious leaves. The cabbage is a symbol of purity, and the cleverly arranged katydid and locust on the leaves are symbols of fertility.

This creative design perfectly combines the natural patterns of the jade material with exquisite craftsmanship, resulting in a jade cabbage so lush and lifelike, it seems to have been made in heaven.

These two imperial jade seals, or stamps, of the Qianlong Emperor are named “His Majesty at Seventy” and “His Majesty at Eighty”.

Sign: Jade Great Seals of “His Majesty at Seventy” and “His Majesty at Eighty”
These two square great seals are crafted of jade, and respectively represent the personal aspirations of the Qianlong Emperor at age seventy and eighty.

From the inscription upon the wooden cases specially made to house the great seals, it can be seen that the Great Seal of "His Majesty at Seventy" derived its name from the famous line by the poet Du Fu, "Tis rare for a man to live to be seventy." Here, the Qianlong Emperor wished to convey that although he was already seventy years of age, he dared not be lax about affairs of state. The Great Seal of "His Majesty at Eighty" derived its name from the term, "to be observant of signs and diligent in administration," in the Hongfan chapter of the Shangshu. This indicated that even at the great age of eighty, the Qianlong Emperor remained concerned about the welfare of his millions of subjects, and sincerely wished to diligently apply himself to governance.

The two great seals can be seen as a reflection of the Qianlong Emperor's mindset during his sixty-year reign.

Of the five national treasures, three were on display here today. It seems they cycle with the southern branch of the museum in Chiayi. One of the remaining two is the Meat-Shaped Stone. Judging from the large photograph on the wall, it looks quite realistic.

Sign: Meat-shaped Stone
The Meat-shaped Stone was crafted from jasper, and has distinct
layered patterns that bear a close resemblance to braised pork belly,
illustrative of the uncanny power of nature. The creator of this
work further drilled and ground fine pores on the surface, then
slightly dyed the area to generate the semblance of a reddish piece
of pork rind, thereby creating a delicious-looking masterpiece that
appears almost identical to a rich and juicy piece of Dongpo pork
braised in soy sauce.

To house this ingenious example of fine craftsmanship, the Qing Court had a gold-gilt stand specially made, and although the finely wrought stand seems at odds with this gourmet work of art, it is a perfect testament to the exceptionality of this masterpiece.

The other artifact is the Jade Tri-Ring. Despite the photograph on the wall, it’s a bit hard to visualize what these three concentric rings look like in person. It it small? Or huge?

Sign: Jade Tri-Ring Symbolizing Heaven, Earth, and Humanity
In ancient times, Heaven, Earth, and Humanity were referred to as the Three Powers, signifying the three ways of heaven, earth, and humankind that govern the workings of the universe.

This work is an embodiment of this cosmic outlook, and from the interior to the exterior, the inner ring represents heaven, with markings indicating the sun, stars, and clouds; the middle ring represents the emperors of humankind, and is adorned with four sets of dragon heads; and the outer ring represents the earth, with mountain and wave decorative patterns.

The three rings can be rotated to form a sphere resembling the armillary spheres of old, and is a masterpiece that combines cosmological philosophy with mechanical ingenuity.

The museum’s collection is huge. There is really too much to see! After this room of national treasures, we tried to walk through and at least look at everything, though that meant we didn’t really spend much time on any one thing.

A bird’s head? Maybe a pheonix?

This pair of birds is really tiny!

This piece is more colorful than what we’ve seen up to now.

The bird on the left is flying!

A pair of horses?

This one incorporates many colors.

This piece has an unusual orange color. What does it depict? It looks like three weights chained together?

The museum’s collection is huge. There is really too much to see! We tried to walk through and at least look at everything, though that meant we didn’t really spend much time on any one thing beyond the room we just left.

This eight piece folding panel seems to include jade elements!

#3 here is a very purple purple. Pretty unusual.

These pieces also incorporate color, including some very deep greens.

Again, some extremely colorful pieces here, particularly the blue one on the right!

These are some very small seals, or stamps.

This is an interesting creature.

This area of the museum was dedicated to writing, particularly items used for calligraphy.

There were also many examples of calligraphy.

This piece was particularly colorful!

This reminded us a bit of the porcelain pieces we saw in the Netherlands for holding flowers.

These are all just a little bit fancier than what we have at home…

Another one of the few examples with very bold and bright colors.

These styles of tea cup, referred to as chicken cups, were created for the use of the Ming Dynasty emperors.

There were more and more people in the museum as the time passed, including some tour groups like this one. It actually wasn’t so bad as long as there wasn’t a tour group around!

This is actual coral!

Another very colorful and interesting looking item!

This room contains items that belonged to the little brother of the Qing Dynasty’s Xianfeng Emperor.

A very pretty scene!

We finished our visit at around 12:45pm and headed back out to take a bus back to the W.

A colorful manhole cover. These sorts of designs are pretty popular in Japan. We haven’t really noticed them in Taiwan until this one.

Afternoon

We took the same bus route back to the W. Once there, we finished packing and rested until it was time for our 4pm late checkout. We left our luggage at the hotel to pick up later in the evening.

Evening

We headed west by MRT to visit the 寧夏夜市 Ningxia Night Market, which we visited when we were last in Taipei. On that visit, it rained quite a bit so it definitely wasn’t ideal. Getting to this night market by MRT does require a few blocks of walking no matter which station you arrive at.

We got some tea from 時氛Tea Vibes, near the southern end of the Ningxia Night Market. They may be new as they only have a few ratings on Google Maps.

We arrived at the night market from the south.

We got some 螺螄 luosi, which are described in English as river snails. They might specifically be a species of freshwater snail found in fields, though we’re not certain about that.

These plates were all from 圓環邊·蚵仔煎, which seems to go by the English name OysterA. They are Michelin selected, thus are in the Michelin Guide, though don’t hold the more prestigious Michelin Star or Bib Gourmand ratings. As the name suggests, their specialty is the Taiwanese oyster omelette. This particular dish is not one of my favorites but it was actually pretty decent here.

We spotted a stand that sells peanut ice cream roll. We’ve had this once in Shifen’s old street. Unfortunately, this version we had here was not nearly as good and was very disappointing.

Calamari rings, not at all like what you’d get in an American restaurant!

We left the night market via its north end and headed east to get to the nearest MRT station, 雙連 Shuanglian. On the way, we stopped by Oolong Tea Project for some tea. We had this before at Ximending.

After getting on the MRT, rather than transfer to the Bannan Line (Blue), we stayed on to go to Taipei 101 where we had one last Tao Tao Tea for this trip.

We then walked north to head back to the W.

We noticed this Yahoo! display on the south side of the Breeze Xinyi near the W. Yahoo! is dead in the US but still alive and well in some parts of Asia.

Once we returned to the W, we picked up a luggage and got an Uber to our next hotel near Taoyuan. The original plan was to simply take the MRT to the airport this evening but we ended up with too much luggage to really do so easily.

We had a nice view of 圓山大飯店 The Grand Hotel on the way, though we weren’t able to get a decent photograph as it was night and we were moving quickly on a highway! This hotel has hosted various world leaders over the years.

Hyatt Regency Taoyuan International Airport

As we have a morning flight tomorrow, we decided to stay near the airport for our final night of this trip.

We decided on the Hyatt Regency as it is on the airport property. The rooms looked decent and the rates were relatively reasonable, at least, significantly cheaper than the W. Upon checking in at around 8:30pm, also signed up for one of the morning shuttles to Terminal 2, the closer of the two terminals here at Taoyuan. The hotel is also near the Airport Hotel MRT station, though we anticipate it will be easier just to use the shuttle.

Compared to the W, the room was pretty basic. It was like a recent Fairfield Inn or similar.

The bathroom looked a bit more modern and had a shower as well as a small room for the toilet on the left.

The room was superficially clean. Obviously, all surfaces were wiped and the carpet was cleaned. But, there was no deep cleaning going on here for probably quite awhile. You can tell by examining areas that require a little bit of effort and attention to keep clean.

Hyatt Regency is supposed to be an upscale brand, and particularly in Asia there are higher expectations than if this was an airport hotel in the US. This hotel definitely did not meet expectations. It was originally a Novotel, part of the French Accor chain, built in 2009. I’ve had some past mediocre experiences with Accor so perhaps this isn’t surprising to have another negative experience. Although we did like their new Mercure near Haneda Airport in Tokyo when we were there back in December!

In retrospect, we should have either stayed at the W for one more night or just stayed at some other place in Taipei. There were many places we could have stayed and had a better experience without adding to the cost.

Tuesday, June 17th

TPE to EWR

After waking up, we packed up the things that we used for our one night stay at the Hyatt and checked out. We were a bit early so waited for the next shuttle to the airport, which we had signed up for yesterday evening when checking in.

There were two busses, one going to each of the two terminals. The ride didn’t take too long, though like many other large airports, there was lots of driving around to go a very short distance.

While our hotel room was disappointing, the staff at least were up to standard and as expected significantly better than what we would expect at a comparable property in the US.

After checking in and passing through security and passport control, we headed right to the lounges. As Star Alliance Gold members, and as passengers traveling in business class on a Star Alliance lounge, we are eligible for entry into any Star Alliance business class or Gold labelled lounge.

The EVA Airlines lounge at TPE was denying entry to United passengers only. It has been awhile since last encountering this kind of issue.

The Plaza Premium Lounge that United contracts with at TPE was pretty mediocre. It turns out that there are actually two lounges, A and A1, in close proximity. Its unclear if there is any significant difference between the two.

The lounge did have hot food available, including a pretty mediocre beef noodle soup.

There were also other items.

And surprisingly, soft serve ice cream!

The Singapore Airlines SilverKris Lounge at TPE opened at 8:20am. This lounge is a Star Alliance Gold as well as business class lounge. We went there to spend the remaining time at TPE. It was much better!

There were many local options to choose from! Sadly, no Singaporean chili crab though!

Soon, it was time to head to the gate. The aircraft for today’s United flight to SFO is a 777-300.

Fully settled in by 9:15am and ready to go!

There was a huge Republic of China flag on the terminal building!

Taoyuan is to the west of Taipei by the Taiwan Strait.

The menu for today’s flight.

Baby arugula salad
with cucumber, sliced red radish and cherry tomato

United has new service items in Polaris business class. Its a brighter appearance with the use of white colored cloth.

While the salad was as described on the menu, the appetizer was not. It was shrimp with a small assortment of vegetables.

“Braised lamb shank
with creamy polenta, green beans and herb tomato sauce”

Typically, the meal choices include a beef item. Today, it was lamb. It was OK. The polenta was described as creamy on the menu, which it was not. While the polenta wasn’t great, it was much better than the disgusting mess on our flight back to Newark from Athens two weeks ago!

The ice cream was, unfortunately, hard as rock. This was despite meal service being delayed due to lots of turbulence out of Taipei.

“Beef and shiitake mushroom congee
with spring onions”

The pre-arrival meal was better than expected. The congee was actually decent, particularly with the beef on top.

Sunrise and an overcast sky below as we approached San Francisco.

We passed by SFO on our downwind leg. It was clear here and the weather looked pretty good!

SFO to BWI

After quickly entering the US, collecting luggage and dropping it back off, and passing through security, it was time to head to the Polaris Lounge.

A bit of waiting was required as the SFO Polaris Lounge does not open until 7am. It turns out that the restaurant would not open until later. Also, a sign indicated that disposable plates and utensils were in use due to an equipment failure. This was probably the case when we were here on our way to Taipei as well.

After spending awhile in the lounge, it was time to head to the gate for this morning’s 9:35am departure to BWI. The aircraft was a 737 MAX 9.

There was no meal preorder available for this flight, possibly due to United’s ongoing catering issues at SFO currently after changing vendors. I was already pretty full so opted for a minimal meal.

After arriving at BWI and picking up the car from The Parking Spot, it was time to drive home to end this trip.

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